The rise of light luxury brands, the pressure on the secondary line of luxury brands to close down

Since its inception, Emporio Armani, Du0026G and Marc by Marc Jacobs' sub-line has combined inexpensive fabrics and low prices to make designer brands more popular, becoming a key channel to increase visibility, recruiting young consumers and generating A reliable source of income. But recently, the turbulence in the market has brought significant pressure on the secondary line. The secondary line once dominated the mid-range market, and now the rise of approachable luxury giants like Michael Kors and Tory Burch has competed with it, and the more affordable products of these two are approaching the status of true mainline products. The secondary line is now squeezed in three aspects,' said Luca Solca, director of Exane BNP, a financial services company in the luxury research department. In addition to approachable luxury brands, consumers now have more choices, from high-quality modern brands such as 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang, to the designer's collaboration with large retailers. These newcomers have a larger production volume (so they can have more competitive prices), a very fast product development cycle (so they can be closer to the latest The popular cycle), and can maintain a single-brand store, give it a wide range of product offers.' said Mario Ortelli, senior vice president of the European luxury financial services company in Bernstein.　　　　 As a result of these pressures, many fashion companies have re-improved the secondary line in their own way. For example, Prada Group chose to reposition Miu Miu. Others, such as Michael Kors and Burberry, have closed some of their secondary lines, especially Kors by Michael Kors and Burberry Sport.　　　　 Rei Kawakubo avoided the secondary line from the beginning. We never like the idea of u200bu200ba secondary line because it will dilute the brand. It weakens the idea. When you think of each secondary line, you will find that its name will be shorter: Ralph Lauren becomes RL and Donna Karan becomes DKNY. When we were Rei Kawakubo's deputy line, we made a special headline-Rei Kawakubo Comme des Garçons (Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons)-because it is not a deputy line, it is an extension: to break away from the entity and maintain its spirit. The idea behind it is no smaller than the first Rei Kawakubo,' Rei Kawakubo's president Adrian Joffe told BoF last year.